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Short answer: a leather trench coat should end at the knee or just below for a modern cut, or mid-calf for a long, dramatic line. Choose the length by your height and how you wear it. Check that the shoulders sit square, the sleeves reach the wrist bone with a sweater on, and the belt closes at your natural waist. Browse our women's leather trench coats to compare styles.
What makes a trench coat a trench coat
Trench coats started as weather coats. A few details survive from that history and now define the look.
- Double-breasted front: two rows of buttons give a wide, overlapping closure.
- Belt: cinches the waist. Worn tied, it defines the shape; worn open, it gives a looser, more relaxed look.
- Storm flap: a panel of leather across the chest or back shoulder. It is mostly decorative now but is part of the classic look.
- Epaulettes: shoulder straps with buttons.
- Collar: usually wide and can be turned up against wind.
- Cuff straps: small belts at the sleeve end that tighten the cuff.
Leather coats borrow these features, so searches for a "leather trench coat" or "long leather trench coat" usually mean this shape in leather rather than cotton gabardine.
Length by height
| Your height | Knee length (about 38 to 40 in) | Mid-calf (about 44 to 48 in) | Ankle (50 in and over) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Under 5 ft 3 in | Safe, hits just above the knee | Can overwhelm the frame; try petite cuts | Usually too long |
| 5 ft 3 in to 5 ft 7 in | Works well, ends at or below knee | Works well | Dramatic, wear with heeled boots |
| Over 5 ft 7 in | Can look short; check the hem against your knee | Works well | Works well |
The figures are approximate and meant for comparing cuts. Use the size chart on the product page for the real length of each coat. A quick way to check at home: measure from the base of your neck at the back to the point on your leg where you want the hem to fall, and compare it with the coat's stated back length.
Fit points to check
- Shoulders: the seam should sit on the edge of your shoulder bone. If it droops, the coat is too big.
- Sleeves: they should reach your wrist bone with a sweater on. Leather does not shorten with wear, so do not count on shrinkage.
- Bust and back: you should be able to cross your arms without the back seams pulling.
- Belt position: it should land at your natural waist, the narrowest part of your torso.
- Hem: it should clear your knees when you sit, and be comfortable on the stairs.
For measuring technique, see how to measure yourself for a perfect leather fit, and for the bust, waist and hip logic that applies to women's cuts, how women's leather jackets should fit.
Leave room for layers
Plan for what you will wear underneath. A fitted leather coat sized for a T-shirt will feel tight over a chunky knit. If you wear sweaters under your coat from November to March, check the chest and upper arm measurements with the heaviest layer on, not your lightest. If you are between sizes, the larger one will usually be the more wearable option, as the belt lets you close the extra volume at the waist.
Leather type and weight
Lambskin is soft and drapes well, which suits a long belted coat. Cowhide and sheepskin are heavier and structured, and hold the shape of storm flaps and collars better. Heavier leather also adds warmth and weight to wear. See what each coat is made from on its product page. For more on the leather types, see cowhide vs sheepskin vs goatskin.
Styling a leather trench
- Black: sharp, formal, works over dresses and tailored trousers.
- Brown or tan: softer, works with jeans, knitwear and boots.
- Belt tied: shapes the waist. Open: relaxed, with a column of leather visible.
- Boots: ankle boots for knee-length coats; knee-high boots for mid-calf and longer.
The men's version is covered in how to choose a men's leather trench coat, and the fall wardrobe ideas in fall and winter leather looks for women pair well with a trench.
Care and rain
Leather is not waterproof. A light shower is usually manageable, but a soaked coat needs to dry slowly on a wide hanger away from heat. Check the label before any treatment. See what to do when leather clothing gets wet.
When a leather trench is not the right choice
If you want a coat for heavy rain, a waterproof fabric trench is the better tool. If you want warmth for deep winter, a shearling or fur-lined coat gives more insulation than an unlined leather trench. If you need a coat you can fold into a bag, leather is the wrong material.
FAQs
What length should a women's leather trench coat be?
Knee length suits most people and is the easiest to wear. Mid-calf is a longer, more dramatic option, best for average to tall heights.
Should I size up in a leather trench coat?
If you plan to wear thick sweaters under it, check the chest and arm measurements with those layers on. If you are between sizes, the larger one is usually more practical for a belted coat.
Can a leather trench coat be worn in the rain?
Light rain is usually fine, but leather is not waterproof. Dry a wet coat slowly and away from heat.
How do I wear the belt?
Tie it at your natural waist for a defined shape, or leave it open or knotted loosely at the back for a more relaxed look.
Can a leather trench be made to measure?
Check the Size options on the coat's product page for Custom Size, which is how made-to-measure is ordered on our site. You send your measurements after you order, and Custom Size takes 3-4 weeks. See also our custom trench coats page.
Ready to compare? Browse our women's leather trench coat collection for colors, lengths and leather types.